(1) When removing the coupling, do not hit it directly with a hammer, but use copper rods, and hit the hub of the coupling instead of the outer edge of the coupling because it is easily damaged. The ideal way is to use a rafter to remove the coupling. For small and medium-sized water pumps, the coupling is easy to remove because of its small interference. For larger pumps, the coupling has a large interference with the shaft, so the coupling must be heated during disassembly.
(2) When assembling the coupling, pay attention to the key number (for a coupling with more than two keys). If you hit with a copper rod, you must pay attention to the part you hit. For example, when hitting the end face of the shaft hole, it is easy to cause the shaft hole to shrink, so that the shaft cannot pass through; hitting the outer edge of the wheel, it is easy to damage the straightness of the end face, and the accuracy of the measurement will be affected in the future when using a feeler to locate degree. For couplings with large interference, they should be reheated before installation.
(3) Coupling pins, nuts, washers and rubber pads must ensure their respective specifications and sizes are consistent, so as not to affect the dynamic balance of the coupling. Coupling bolts and corresponding coupling pin holes should be marked appropriately to prevent misassembly.
(4) The coupling between the coupling and the shaft generally uses a transition fit, which may cause a small amount of interference or a small amount of clearance. For a coupling with a longer hub, a loose transition fit may be used because of its shaft hole Longer, because the surface is rough and uneven, it will naturally cause some interference after assembly. If it is found that the coupling between the coupling and the shaft is too loose, which affects the concentricity of the hole and the shaft, repair welding should be performed. Punching or padding copper on the shaft is an expedient measure and cannot be used as an ideal method.
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